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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.